I went ahead and bought a new MacBook Air to transfer the photos from my iPhones to so that I can edit them.
I completed actions 1,2,3 on your list and cannot seem to find anything related to 4. File Sharing.
The apps only show up as a view of my phone home screen and I can not figure out how to open the Mapillary app.
I am very new to all of this tech and wonder if there is something I must activate in the MacBook or iPhone to allow me to complete this procedure?
Any advice?
You have to scroll down to the very bottom of the screen. Iāve attached two screenshots, one where Iāve just clicked on Apps to the left, and one where I have scrolled down to the bottom. Hope this helps!
Got that working. Thanks.
Web uploader is not allowing me to upload. All my photos are being stripped of needed info either
after saving to downloads on my laptop or as I try to do a manual upload at the Mapillary uploader.
I do not want to delete the photos on the phone before I know they can be uploaded via the website. Putting them back on my slower phone to upload would defeat one of the purposes of buying the laptop. I still have to figure out how to edit the photos on my laptop without messing anything up (purpose #2).
What kind of editing do you do on your computer? Which apps are you using? Or are you just deleting images?
Transferring the images to your computer doesnāt damage the EXIF (I just checked using Photoshop). But I just tried upload via web and it doesnāt allow me to upload it, so itās a bug, either in the iOS app or in the web upload feature.
Note: Manual upload of photos taken with the app is not currently supported to prevent duplication of images. We are working on a fix for this that will be able to identify when images have been uploaded twice. You can follow the progress of this here. https://github.com/mapillary/UserGuide/wiki/Uploading
Look what I just found. Is this still in effect?
And this was farther down the same page-
Uploading photos taken with the Mapillary app
Windows only: Install the latest Python 2. Youāll probably want the āWindows x86 MSI Installerā, and have a look at a few guides to get properly set up
Download upload.py
Open Command prompt (Windows) or Terminal (Mac)
Enter the command: cd {path to the script}
Enter the command: python upload.py {path to your photos}
Wait for your photos to upload
Thanks for looking into this. I donāt think I am ready for scripts yet.
I did do this-
iPhone to MacBook to iPad, edit, and upload with mapillary app. Works fine so far. Looks like the web uploader is where they pulled the plug. I would still like to be able to go through the web uploader on my laptop. Let me know if they change it.
@Anders
Do you know if the upload time is the same for a laptop as it is for an iPad?
It is taking me about half an hour per 90 photos now. This is depressingly slow.
I think newer iPhones/iPads should be as fast as laptops, as in support the new faster wireless standards. But it depends on router as well and which mode you use.
A relative had an older iPad (1st gen I think) and could not get very fast speeds despite he had 100 Mbit and a new fancy (and expensive) router. He was so disappointed in his new router. I did some testing with my laptop and got great speeds. So it wasnāt until he got a new phone (iPhone 6 in this case) that he could use the full potential of his wireless. Not saying you need/should upgrade!
So if you suspect something is wrong, perhaps itās time to do some error checking. A simple test is to test network speed on your laptop and on your iPhone/iPad (using some service), you should get the same speeds more or less. There are apps and websites for this.
Seems like QoS/MMS is a common error cause, perhaps try to turn that off on your router.
(My parentās only have 2/0,5 Mbit and it is painfully slow to upload there. I always do it at home instead where I have 100/100 or at work (200+). There itās fast to upload, so the servers should be able to handle speeds up to that speed at least)
Hi @voschix, I would delete pictures before you upload them. This has the benefit of working at the speed of your computer and not the internet connection as well as it saves handling the photos on all following steps.
Is there any reason why you donāt do that? curious
Hi @seb,
(I presume you refer to my note of Oct 15 last year)
the number of pictures that I need to remove is very small in comparison with the ones that have missing or false positive pixelling. Hence there is no point in doing anything on the photos before uploading.
What really would be nice is having the status information for the sequence as I suggested, and, even more important, a title and/or date and/or location or any other information that identifies the sequence apart from he first photo (which at present is the only way do identify a sequence, and to be honest I have by now so many sequences that I simply do not recognise most of them from the first photo)
In that context: I have given up keeping track of which sequences I reviewed, and which ones not, simply because the effort was so big,
An old thread, but Iāll contribute in any case as I feel Iāve found a good way to considerably improve picture quality in challenging lighting conditions like on sunny days, overcast days, shooting against sun or with snow on the ground.
I shoot mainly with Garmin Virb XE and itās always slightly underexposing, even in easy conditions and more so in typical challenging settings (e.g. bright sky in the middle of the picture area).
After transferring pictures to computer and running remove_duplicates and interpolate_direction python scripts I run the pictures through Lightroom with following settings:
exposure +0.33 (often times could be more but with this I never get blown-out highlights)
shadows +66 (this makes a big difference and hasnāt caused any banding yet at least with the last 30k+ pictures)
clarity +10 (to improve the tonal contrast or to make images āpopā a bit more, very conservative amount)
vibrance +30 (to improve the dull-ish colors of Virb XE without making the images look disneychrome either)
crop from 4:3 to 16:9 to get rid of the futile bottom area in order to reduce Lightroom export time, file size and upload time. Iāve been a bit apprehensive if this is an OK thing to do?
Finally upload_with_authentication.
Iām attaching a few before and after pictures. Any thoughts or recommendations?
I also tried this, with some 360 degree images, and I have now made it part of my 360 workflow. I use Rawtherapee, which is open source / free software.
E.g. on Mapillary
the ground was completely black before editing.
Especially when the Sky is covered i clouds, they often light so much up that the rest of the image is under exposed. In those cases I still set the camera to shoot +1/3 to 2/3 stops more than auto thinks is best, but some post production makes it much better. Even when using jpgs as a source.
Great idea @GOwin! That should help streamline the process quite a bit and also hopefully provide some performance improvements as it takes ages for Lightroom to process the images.
Imagemagickās documentation feels a bit overwhelming to figure out, though. @tryl would you mind sharing your Rawtherapee settings (and how you embedded it as part of your Python scripts?)